We recently purchased high efficiency, EPA approved woodstove with qualifies for the Inflation Reduction Act tax credits for high efficiency bio mass burning devices.
With the August 16, 2022, signing of the Inflation Reduction Act (IRA), high-efficiency biomass heating products once again qualify for a tax credit under Section 25(C) of the Internal Revenue Code (“IRC” or “tax code”). Beginning in 2023, consumers buying highly efficient wood or pellet stoves or larger residential biomass heating systems may be eligible to claim a 30% tax credit – capped at $2,000 annually – based on the full cost (purchase and installation) of the unit. The credit runs through December 31, 2032.
These wood stoves are designed to reduce smoke particulates coming out of the chimney and extract a high amount of heat out of your firewood. They do this with a catalytic element and an airflow that burns the offgasses out of the wood smoke. EPA stoves have a secondary burn, rather than letting all of those wood gases fly up the flue, they are circulated back to the fire for a second burn.
How are EPA-certified stoves different, and why are they better? “Certified” means that a wood-burning appliance meets EPA clean air standards. It generates less smoke (fewer particles) than a non-certified stove and uses less wood to create more heat. Only new stoves are certified.
– https://www.epa.gov/burnwise/frequent-questions-about-wood-burning-appliances
They are very effecient but can be tricky to use as they work a bit differently than a traditional wood stove. Because they are so tight, it can hard to use without getting a bit of smoke inside when the door is open.
I’ve found that these techniques and tips work best.
- If starting with a cold stove, it is important to properly heat the flue to create a draft. Use newspaper to warm up the flue and then build a top down fire. Leave the door open a crack to provide enough oxygen to get this initial fire going well. Leave it open a crack for the first burn.
- When reloading the stove, wait until the flames are out and the only thing left is glowing hot red coals.
- Open the bypass and wait a minute for the gases to stablize.
- Open the door and again wait a minute to allow the air to stablize.
- You can rake the coals towards the front or side and great an air space in the middle.
- Load the stove with dry wood and a few pieces of kindling.
- Keep the door open a crack until you see some flames on the just added wood.
- Then close the door and engage the catalytic element.
A metal garden rake such as this one is excellent for moving around the hot coals in your wood stove.
How to make a top down fire in your wood stove
This video from MF Fire does a good job of showing what is involved in building a top down fire to start up your wood stove. Top down fires heat up the flue and create a great draft from the start.
Tips
- Don’t open the door while flames are present. Wait until there are only embers.
- Disengage the cataliytic element. Open the door a crack to let the embers heat up before adding more wood.
- EPA or high efficiency stoves tend to build up a lot of charcoal. If the charcoal gets too deep, rake the coals towards the front – where the airflows in and just add in a single piece of wood with each load until the coal bed lowers.
- Check the moisture content of your wood! Make sure it is seasoned. Use a moisture meter like below:
Avoid unburnt wood gases causing fireball “explosions”
I checked on the stove once and saw not flame on the logs only fire in the air above them. I opened up the bypass a bit and poof there was a puff of smoke coming out of the door gasket – the wood gases basically exploded. A bit scary and caused by too much wood gases compared to the available oxogen level. I ran the stove with the bypass open for a bit to clear out the gases and get a flame going on the logs.
The fix is not overloading your stove with too many small pieces or wet wood that doesn’t burn properly and allowing the fire to get going after reloading. You want the logs to burn, not cook and smolder. Also checking that your catalytic combuster isnt’ clogged up and restricting air flow.
After loading your stove with wood, always let it char or burn wood for at least 15 minutes, maybe even longer, and do not damper your stove all the way closed, this will enable your stove to get enough oxygen to burn a little, this will keep gases from building up. As a general rule, always make sure you can see a steady small flame somewhere in the stove before you leave it for bed or whatever. If there is a flame, then most likely you will not build up any gases because this flame is burning the gases.
Smoky glass? Smoldering fire? Check your catalytic element
Recently my stoves performance went way down after using it for about a month. The glass was getting smoked up and the wood wasn’t burning well. It was just smoldering and turning in charcoal. At first I suspected wet wood. But then I remembered to check the catalytic element – low and behold, it was all clogged up with ash and soot. After vaccuuming it out, I cleaned the glass, started up a hot kindling fire to heat up the flue and had great burning. Now I’ll just remember to check the catalytic element every time I do an ash clean out.
A catalytic combustor is a ceramic honey – comb. As smoke passes through it, both
gases and small particles are burned, which increases efficiency and reduces pollution.
A catalytic combuster on a wood stove can last 500-600 days but occasionally will need cleaning. You can rub it with a soft brush and vaccum it. You don’t want to use anything hard as that would scrape off the metals that are doing the work.
With proper care, a new catalytic combustor will give
years of fuel savings, increased efficiency and lowered
emissions. By following some simple guidelines, you can
ensure maximum combustor performance and longevity.
Your catalytic converter is designed to last for 12-14,000
hours of use. You can get the maximum life from your
combustor by following these simple guidelines:
1) Burn only natural well-seasoned wood. If wood is not
seasoned, the moisture will cool the catalyst reduce
efficiency, and condense in the chimney when it is bitter
cold. Burn dry wood and avoid using your stove as an
evaporator!
2) Wait until the thermometer on the stove top reaches 250
degrees (500 degrees inside of firebox) to engage the combustor.
3) Bypass the combustor before opening the door and
reloading. Leave bypass open for a short time after adding
wood to allow moisture in wood to burn off and the
exhaust stream to return to 500° inside the stove.
4) Don’t overfire the stove. Excessive heat can damage the
combustor, and a “raging fire” will also produce an
exhaust velocity that reduces the effectiveness of the combustor.
5) Clean the combustor regularly. We recommend cleaning
the combustor with a vacuum cleaner or soft bristled brush
every six weeks or after a cord of wood.